Farhan´s Adventures in South America

The time came when I just had to pack a bag, and go.. why, or where exactly I didn´t know, but Lima was as good a place as any to start... and so the adventure began...

Saturday, June 18, 2005

Wed 15 June - Puma flies to Canada

Wake up early, to find everyone awake, bustling around..

Get ready, and find it's still early in the morning, and Puma's getting ready to go to the airport... End up riding along with the rest of the family to the airport... Seems it's a bit of an occasion, and the sisters, are riding along, as well as an Aunt!

I guess not everyone gets to go in and out of airports like some of us!

At the airport, I realise just how much of a novelty escalators are, as the aunts walk up the stairs, and the kids eagerly go up and down the escalators!

After seeing Puma off, we head back to the car, and everyone piles in again... we then become a bit of a cab, dropping people off on the way to the market, before we reach home.

When we're at the market, talking with Willy, (Puma's cousin I think?), I learn that typically when Willy was working as a builder he was taking home about 500 soles each month.. the equivalent of 100 pounds! Not much to live on.. and his graduation costs about 2,000 or 3,000 soles I think. Till then, he has to wait before he can graduate in being a tour guide.... Shocking I know! Boy do we need to change the planet if ever we needed to!

Tues 14 June - Baby comes home!

Today, Edy and the baby get to come home! So sometime in the afternoon, Edy and baby get picked up, and with a car load full, including grandparents, grand aunts, and yours truly stuffed in the trunk, we make the journey home!

That afternoon, Puma's room becomes a reception room for family, friends and neighbours, all eager to offer their congratulations!

That evening, I eventually get a coca leaf reading from Puma - and he clearly sees the trip to Iquitos, and it being a good thing... He also sees a whole bunch of other stuff through the coca leaves, including me meeting my 'princess' out in Peru! Another good sign, if I was ever short of them!

Mon 13 Jun - A Baby is born

5 am - Puma's son was born!

When I wake up, I find out that Puma's at the hospital with Edy (Edith his wife:), and that the baby was born that morning!

Thinking back, I realised it's an interesting choice of time for the baby... since it was literally only hours after I had found my 'destination' in the jungle, and it was only two days before Puma was heading off to Canada...

And to be there the day that the baby was born was reminiscent of the words of Elisabet, of becoming the godfather...

A short while after waking up, Puma returns to the house to collect supplies, and I tag along on the ride to the hospital. Unforunately, visitors aren't allowed in, until after 1pm, and so upon leaving Edy some Caldo (A soup for people who are ill, or need to recover their strength!) I get dropped off downtown, whilst the others head back to the house.

As I wonder the streets looking for an internet cafe, I hear bollywood music playing, and upon inspecting further, I discover that it's an indian style vegetarian restaurant, fronted by a shop selling mainly indian clothes. Upon asking, they happen to also stock Bollywood music, and DVD´s. So I end up after spending close to an hour to listening to a whole bunch of cd's, buying some bollywood music, and a DVD of Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, as a gift for Puma and Edy, for their new born...

Then I head off to the hospital, after a good few hours on the Internet, updating this blog...

Get to hold the little-un, and I'm reminded of my own niece Naba being born, and holding her the afternoon after she was born too... Reminds me of how special babies are...

Sometime later, perhaps even a few days later, I'm telling my story to Puma's mom, and she suggests maybe the baby wanted me to be there when he was born... I give up trying to know anything for sure anymore.. anything's possible in this crazy world huh?

After the hospital, we go to get some supplies, and I get to buy a whole bunch of outfits, and blankets for the baby... my gifts to the baby! Now I just need to find the perfect cuddly toy!

Sun 12 June - Path into the Jungle

Today, for some reason I decided to dowse a map of Peru that I had bought with a quartz crystal pendulum that I happened to buy a few days ago too...

So with the map open in front of me, I started to 'set' the pendulum for the yes and no responses, by asking questions that would give clear yes and no answers... Then I started to hold the pendulum over the map, on Cuzco, and we got a clear no...

Slowly moving over the map, I eventually found myself over the north region of Loreta, and found that over Iquitos, I started to get a 'yes' from the pendulum. Wanting to make sure, I moved in closer over the map, and suddenly the yes became a no... strange I thought.. so I kept moving and all of a sudden I found a yes response over the place called 'Mazon'. Focusing on Mazon, suddenly the pendulum started to swing directly over the Rio Mazon leading out of Mazon, heading north west...

Allowing the pendulum to guide me, I kept moving it along the river, until it went past the end of the river, and came to a complete stop. It just stopped moving. No yes, no no, just stillness. I figured this was where I was meant to head to. So moving out from the map, I decided to get a more aerial perspective, and as I moved further up, the pendulum started to give me a 'yes' response, again becoming still when I moved closer into the spot.

So, trusting my intution, I shared with Puma the location on the map that I was looking to travel to, and when I asked him if he had any way of checking it out, he suggested a coca reading on Tuesday - the day that coca readings are best made. Knowing how accurate a coca reading could be, having read about how Joan Parisi Wilcox had been predicted to share the knowledge of the Q'ero´s long before she had even thought of writing a book about them, I figured it would be a good validation, as well as providing me a little solace of spirit that I wasn't going into the Jungle blindly.

Monday, June 13, 2005

Wed 8 June - Discovering another Paqo

Wanted to meet with Kathleen Fimmel today - a friend of a friend who I'd gotten in touch with by email, but it seems that I woke up at 3 or 4pm. Walked into Plaza after a bit of Internet, and decided to get a falafel. Found a shoe store, where I might get a pair of shoes from, saw a kid selling a Quechua book, thought I want one! Watched Ocean's 12, got Kathleen on the phone as she was going out the door. Had pizza, went to Internet Cafe. Ended up speaking with the old man who works there (or maybe he owns it too??) Arranged to meet with his Paqo friend (Paqo being the word for a Q'ero medicine man). It seems he also knows of the old ways, and the traditions. Offers me a cactus drink for my health.

Tues 7 June - Starting a Blog...

As I was waking up I felt like someone was tapping me, and that my hand was being pulled. But no-one was there. After waking up, we get an electric rickshaw style taxi to the car, had breakfast, and then drove back to Cusco. From there I spent most of the day in the Internet Cafe setting up this web blog! End up checking into the Hostal Acosta after eating half-cooked pizza and experiencing diaorrhea again. Ended up going between the hotel and Internet, until the internet stopped working. So I went into town and watched the tail end of Be Cool. Got a cab back and slept.

Mon 6 June - Flying to Americo Yabar

Up at 5.30am. Get to airport, buy ticket. Decide to buy something for family. End up with Dunkin Donuts brekkie. Get flight, brekkie again. Then in Cusco, on street outside airport was the best brekkie... Warm apple juice, with quinoa, and Avocado on bread.. YUMMIEE!! Bus to town, meet Americo after 10am. End up in Pisaq for lunch with Americo. Then have some sleep @ his family home, before driving up the mountain in Calca. Most amazing ride.. We give lifts to locals, and give bread to everyone we meet on the way... Speak with the powerspot that has called me. Dinner, and then back at the house, we light a fire in the fireplace, which burns ferociously. Sleep.

Sun 5 June - Feeling better!!

Much better! Woke up feeling more myself. Found Papi playing guitar downstairs. Everyone else asleep or resting somewhere. Have half a cup of brekkie, with some bread. Watch TV. Seems Papi has to go to work & there I was hoping to spend some time with the whole family.. Apparently not as much time as I wanted. Realise I'll have to take a flight tomorrow morning from Lima. Nice dinner. Watch Star Wars & Lord of the Rings. Talk with Artu (a cousin-in-law) about life, get to bed early. Early start tomorrow.

Sat 4 June - Being taken care of...

Wake up feeling better. I think the Coca leaves the night before helped digest whatever it was. Still feeling fragile though. Have coca tea for brekkie, with some bread. Puma goes with uncle to help out at work. End up spending the day watching films in English with Spanish subtitles. Helps a little with vocab and phrases. For lunch a quinoa soupy sauce with rice... and salady veg - v. nice!! Rest a while, eat a while... In evening I feel better, hear Papi's guitar, put on music, start dancing salsa, merengue, hip hop... By 3am, go to sleep. Exhausted.

Fri 3 June - Day of rest...

Wake up not feeling so hot. Puma has disappeared to Embassy & Papi to work, so have breakfast feeling ill. Watch TV whilst everyone else is doing their own thing. After a while of not feeling so good, I decide to lie down. Get woken up about 3pm for lunch. Eat, but then a short while after I go back to sleep. End up skipping dinner cos tummy hurts, and sleep through till the morning. Throughout night, I'm waking up to slip to loo, and back to bed... not feeling too good...

Thurs 2 June - Arriving in Lima

Wake up to find that it's getting light.... (Bus trip from Cusco to Lima is 21 hours, and we left Cusco yesterday at 8pm!)
See the sun rising as we drive round the mountains. Stop for breakfast... having pacified my tummy a little with coca tea, earth breathing, and just trying to feel the spiritual balance being in harmony. End up riding through the Nasca lines area, and driving by the coast. Arrive in Lima after being entertained on the bus by some musicians, a sales man for Aloe Vera supplements, and my iPod. Arrive in the Uncles place of work, meet Aunt and Uncle. Have dinner in a chicken restaurant. Take back some food for them. Spend an hour on the Internet chatting to Bro online. Get back before Fredy, and end up talking to the Aunt and Uncle for 2 or 3 hours, talking in Spanish. Never realised I could speak in Spanish... looks like the Michel Thomas course had worked.... At 10pm, we end up going for 'kebabs', which includes intestines, and take some home for the family. End up talking till 2am.

Wed 1 June - Happy Anniversary to my folks!

Wake up as Puma is ready to go to town. Alex brings me breakfast and bread in bed. So I spend some time wondering what to do. Spend a bit of time writing up my diary, and in doing so Alex is ever curious as to the diary. I end up learning the days of the week, and the months of the year from May to Sept in Spanish. Go into town to phone home and wish em Happy Anniversary. End up on Internet , finding a few more places to connect with. Back at house decide to go to Lima with Puma by Bus half an hour before Puma's about to leave. Pack my stuff, and just go to the bus station. Get assigned seat number 27, the day of my birthday, so figure it makes a good sign! I end up feeling really ill on the bus, and within 4 hours, I'm in the toilet, letting everything out... after a half hour in the toilet without water or paper, I find a queue of people waiting for the toilet. I was so lucky that I had some tissue paper in my pocket, otherwise, I don't know what I would have done... Starting to learn the local norms, which include carrying your own toilet paper!

Tues 31 May - A day in Cusco

Woke up to find Puma had already gone to town. Thought I should phone Don Americo today, so I ventured into town. Edgar takes me into town by cab, and I end up finding Calle Saphi, where a volunteer program I had seen advertised is located. Go onto the Internet to discover that I have my numerology report and spend time reading that. Watch a film, the Incredibles, and then eventually get back to the house via a cab. Have a dinner of rice and soup & also when I was online I found another two contacts in Cuzco - the journey unfolds.

Mon 30 May - Back to Fredy's home...

Woke up in Chinchero, had breakfast, and fruit and sugar cane. Saw a bit of weaving start. Got picked up by Fredy's cousin and driven back to the house. Was invited to stay at the house, and had lunch of fried potatoes. Slept a while in the living room area. Woke up, had dinner and watched The Medallion, with Jackie Chan. Was invited to sleep upstairs in a bed, in a room all for myself. At first, I didn't want to impose, but everyone was so insistent and generous I had to take em up on their offer.

Sun 29 May - Meeting the elders of Chinchero

Got picked up in San Blas, by Fredy (Puma's Spanish name..), stopped at the house to get supplies, and the rest of the family, and then went to Chinchero. Took stuff into Fredy's in-laws house in Chinchero, and then went upto church. Took part in mass, and then got to sit with the spiritual elders of Chinchero, as they welcomed Fredy into their council as their equal. I sat with Grandpa, since Fredy told me that everyone respected him, and as long as I was with him, no-one would mind me sitting there with them. We all had lunch, which was provided by Fredy and his family, then as they all went to play football, I went back to the house and rested.
Woke up and went downstairs, to find everyone there sitting and waiting. It seems I arrived at just the perfect time. Shared dinner, after the elders had performed a blessing with bread, again with each one taking their turn to say their piece, and congratulating everyone else. Everyone took shots of Piso, and Wine, and then after dinner, the music started. Eventually most of the men were up there dancing. I had the strangest feeling that I'd definitely seen half of the men before. When I later checked the book I had read by Joan Parisi Wilcox (Keepers of the Ancient Knowledge), there was no mention of any of the Chinchero spiritual elders there. Yet I was sure I had seen them whilst reading that book...

Sat 28 May - Visiting the market

Spent most of Saturday in my hotel room, pining for the love of my life, that I had yet to meet.
Meet Ella in the square around 4pm, when I finally decide to go and get something to eat.
I wanted to find supplies for sewing and got directions to the marketplace, before I left the hostal.
There I ate fish, and got cloth, a rainbow seam, and needles and thread. I got back and started to repair my clothes, in preparation for Sunday and meeting the elders at Chinchero with Puma.
Was really nice having to sew. Look forward to more of it.

Fri 27 May - My Birthday!!

What a wicked birthday!!
I decide on breakfast @ Jack's Cafe and meet the travellers I met yesterday. Ends up that we're both staying in the same place too!! Arrange to meet for dinner, and then go meet Puma. He arrives, and when he learns it's my Birthday, he takes me to Sacsayhuamán, and as goes the Peruvian tradition, he showers me with confetti, to represent the flowering of a new year. I found it real interesting that I should be 'flowered' on the day that my Mayan signature turns into a Seed - the keywords of which are 'flowering targets awareness' :)

Have lunch at the vegetarian resturant. I go to a shop I had visited the day before, and from where I wanted to buy a flute, known as a Quena. When the people in the shop find out it's my brithday, they start asking me what about cake? And I end up going with a lady from the store to the cake shop. I get to blow out a candle, and get my face pushed into the cake, as I'm encouraged to take a bite directly from the cake! All good fun!!

Then in the evening, I take the friends I've met with me to Puma's home, where we enjoy a meal of king fish, and rice. Then we finish with bollywood music from my iPod, as well as some bollywood music dvd's that Puma has... it was the last place on the planet that I'd expected to find some of the 'home' culture, and yet here I was, celebrating, and dancing to music from home! Puma's mom even had her favourite song!

Thur 26 May - Returning to Cusco

Took the collectivo to Cuzco. Met with a pair of travellers from Shepherds Bush, my own home turf!
Got into Cuzco. Spent 2 hours trying to find a place to saty in. End up in Inti Quilla (The Moon & Sun!!) Call and speak to Puma - arrange to meet tomorrow. Have dinner in a place that was recommended. Taco's weren't very good. End up finding a nice little store selling woven stuff. Get gloves, scarf, hat & promise to return in september to buy more as gifts before returning to UK.